The next leg of m journey involved more hitching; this time to the mountain town of Wanaka. Wanaka is home to epic sportclimbing, Mt. Aspiring National Park (for tramping-kiwi slang for hiking), and the snow resorts. I made it into town at 8 pm, after almost having to tent for the night only 53km away off the highway. A really nice Kiwi stopped for me though, feeling sorry for me seeing as it was getting dark and very cold.
My first night I spent in a hostel where I made an effort to find climbers...Success!! Who would have thought the Noah, a Kiwi with dreads, would climb ha! Anyway, the next day we hitched to Hospital Flats, a beautiful sport crag with numerous routes, mainly short and pumpy an with lots of crimps :D! That was my first day back climbing in about two months.... I was weak, but still had it. That day Noah introduced me to a group of climbers he had met earlier, an American girl, a German strong man, and a Swedish couple. Well, as it turns out, Alyson, the American, was the girlfriend of a New Zealander I gave a ride to Joshua Tree when he was in the states. Long story short, she offered me a place to stay, and in one days time I was sharing a room with David, the German. David became my closest friend in Wanaka, my climbing partner every day, and my climbing coach for that matter. He taught me how to bake my own bread (hell yes this will be going down in SLO), how to mentally approach climbs, and how to do work on a carton of ice cream. David and I shared a room for 2 1/2 weeks, climbing nearly every day.
On to the Swedish couple, A.K. and Johan (pronounced Yo-han for you non-Europeans). They were not strong climbers, but part of the every day climbing group. They were always smiling, and more than happy to take David and I to the crag in their beater Mazda righteously dubbed the Rusty Pearl. That's right, similar to the Black Pearl from Pirates of the Carribean. We climbed, we tramped, we made pizza and played cards. These three are people I will never forget; the good times we shared were those of true friendship and good vibes. Moral of the story, I will travel to Europe to see them at some point, this I promise.
Activities. Weather was good, so I found myself in a never ending climbing oddysey. Perfection. Happiness. It was here I found my first true project, a 27 (NZ rating) called Attic. The climb followed a sloping crack up an overhanging face. Holds were allcrimps around the face working to a slopey jug finish when your forearms burned from the pump! This is the climb David taught me the mental approach: Haus-Bolden (work the moves) until they are ingrained in your very core, then send. It was a 2 week ordeal, with roughly 4 sessions on the problem... US grade: 5.12d. I am oficially back!
One weekend was marred with rain, so the four of us opted to do some tramping to the French ridge in Mount Aspiring area. The hike started ot great, a washed out bridge and a river fording experience within the first 100 meters. Yay wet boots!!! We trudged and slid our way 3 hours in the rain to the first hut, where we were told contiuing on would be both stupid and dangerous, even for me. So we opted to stay the night, a gloomy ending to a posibly spectacular day.
The next moring we woke to good weather and opted to push for the ridge. Soon, we were to the seemingly endless uphill scramble, a 3 hour endeavor of grabbing tree branches and scrambling up rocks, muddy hills, and eventually steep tussock switchbacks. Once to the top, we were greeted by curious Kea! These are silly mountain parrots known for their curiosity... and tearing rubber striping off of cars. The hut sat on a small flat area overlooking the whole valley, glaciers in nearly every direction and a toilet made for a king. After a quick lunch, I sprang further up the ridge to see if I could make the peak. Unfortunately, it became too sketchy without mountaineering gear due to snow and ice. Still, the views here at glacier level were nothig les than magical, spectacular. There I was, frolicking through patches of snow in shorts and long johns; pure bliss. Dinner was minimal, seeing as we only planned on staying one night. It was a evening of numerous card games and smiles. We were all just so happy to have made it to this little slice of heaven with the good company that was our small and mainly European contingency. Did we suffer? Not really... we were merely uncomfortabl getting there at times. The worst thing that happened really was a long hike back with nothing but porridge for the day. But, we survived, and I stillenjoy oatmeal. O and don't worry, photos will be added stateside.
Wanaka was a time of growth for me... both physicaly and emotionally. I mean, I came back to climbing shape. More importantly, I learned the true happiness climbing has for me. I don't need it in my life, but it sure as hell is nice to have. I mean, climbing is bliss. Climbing is the spark of happiness in life. I know I will be happy climbing, and always am. True I can get cold, can have a day with no sends... but it is all in the direction, or rather pursuit of happiness. Peace. Love. Rocks.
The time in Wanaka also allowed me to become settled and really experience an area. In this way I made true bonds of friendship. I did not party and rage like some people do abroad, but I lived comfortably and in good company. I learned aboutmyself. I leanred about meeting others and forming connections beyond the basic bullshitting that is hostel conversations. Thank you Wanaka. One day I hope to return, and next time for longer.
However, soon it was time to leave, and my 3 weeks of happiness and perfect living has ended. As of now, I write from an old vistorian home outside the town of Timaru. Here I am WWOOFING, or working for lodging and food. I have had the good fortune of being put up at a the Stables Cafe and Bar, owned and operated by Shirley and her master chef son (at the age of 30) Billy. I have been here only a day.
So far, I have just been leisurely gardening and mowing the lawn,simple yet spiritually cleansing tasks. I have to eat breakfast in the cafe before 9 (opening time) and otherwise am left to basic tasks. Lunch is of course off of the delicious cafe menu and dinner is cooked in the home next door. Life is simple. Food is f*cking fantastic! I am eating better here than I have in my whole time in New Zealand (sorry David, AK and Johan but it is even better than our pizzas! but no ice cream).
Working for these people, Shirleyand Billy, is nothing but relaxation. True, not all WOOFing is like this, but the system is ingenious. Farmers get labor, travelers get accomodation. One could tour New Zeland for next to nothing in this way, living frugally and gaining new and unusual life experiences along the way. I will not be doing this for long however.
Soon I am off to CASTLE HILL!!!!! Ok, so for those of you who don't know, Castle Hill is the premeir bouldering spot in New Zealand, known for its unique climbing relying soley on friction and smearing. What does that mean?? It means it has to be cold to be climbed.... SO i will be leaving the warmth and good food here at Stables Cafe for the cold mountains of Arthurs Pass, which is the peak of New Zealands Southern Alps. Where will I stay? Well I am glad you asked. For this "fun" experience I will be living out ofmy tent outside Castle Hill Vilage, a sorry excuse for a settlement which consists of one lodge. Grocery store? NO, that would be too easy. Instead I will have to pack in enough food for two weeks. WOOOO!!
The good news? There should be other climbers there this time of year, so I should have a way to and from the climbing area to the camping area, and back to civilization. Am i excited? HELL YA!
Let's see.... my flight home is scheduled or July 19th... but will I come home then? I don't know. I still can push the flight back. There is still so much to see: Paynes Ford ( the sportclimbing Mecca of NZ) and a couple other tramps I cannot pass up. I mean, when will I be in New Zealand again?! Only time will tell as far as my flight and my return. In the meantime, know I will be hitching to climing area and living the dream here in a country of kind souls. Not all are this way... but it seems like for Kiwi's, going out of their way to help you is the norm. And now do you see the justification for my love of this country? It is more than the epic landscapes, it is the culture and atitude as well.
Untilnext time!
Cheers!
Great post Trevor! Good to hear what you have been up to. Nice work on the climb!
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