Castle Hill Crushing

Castle Hill.  Epic.

I spent the last two weeks crushing the nearly holdless, sed for the occassional pocket, rocks of Castle Hill. The limestone was unique, with nearly no grit to speak of.  The first few days led to only a few sends, and only of warm-ups really.  However, after a few days, I was back to crushing!

I was dropped off at the campsite by a friend's father from Wanaka.  Steve, a cheerful old man, was kind enough to pick me up from my wwoofing gig, and take me there.  On the way, he imparted numerous peices of wisdom.  Here it is:

1.) "Notice what u notice":  Basically, we can only change our behaviors, our weaknesses, by noticing them first.  We, as individuals, just need to notice our own feelings and behaviors; this is the only way for true self-improvement.

2.) Don't use the words never and always:  as Steve put it, the only "always" is that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west.  These terms are all inclusive... they just cause people to jump to edgy and angry conclusions.  We need to think in percentages.  It's not I never do the dishes, it's I rarely (for instance).

Thanks Steve.

At the Castle Hill campsite I soon made great friends of Ry and Lauren, Misoula Montana natives who had an awesome camper van and tons of good vibes.  I spent two weeks with this couple, laughing, playing cards, and crushing routes.  They were nothing but kind and overal.... well awesome.  Hell, I intend to meet up again in a few weeks, hopefully to drink more rum and check out some killer beaches. Thanks for the good times guys.  Also, Lauren started none other than 1 awesome dread in my hair! WOOOO!!!

What do you call the useless flap of skin attached to a vagina?

a woman (thx Ry hahaha)

I then met the awesome German crew of Andreas, Johanne, and Marcus.  Andreas was basically a walking guide book for Castle Hill, and an overall great person.  He welcomed me to the area, he gave me a spot, we worked problems.  Of course this pertains to Johanne too!  These guys were incredible, and amazing climbing partners.  Words cannot describe how much I ejoyed my time with them all.

It really got me to thinking though.... It is intrigueing how we attach ourselves to strangers when travelling.  I mean, I don't know them at all;  they owe me nothing.  However, rockclimbing and travelling brings us together, and so we become friends.  We form bonds that are short lived but strong.  These are all dear friends, the closest I have on this side of the world...

So on to the ticklist....  Basically I sent numerous V4s, 5s and sixes, often not knowing the name or grade.  However, I am proud to say that I sent the elusive and classic V6 Unrepeatable mantle, a monster mantle that IS Castle Hil climbing style.  The topouts are slopy, blank, holdless.  This epic problem is all of four feet high, with slopers for the hands and a whole lot of noting else.  Throw the heel up and press!!

Johanne and I worked this problem for a bit... Soon my side felt like it was going to explode from the strange movement and strain of the route.  However, Andreas provided incentive: a slice of PB and J at the top.  O ya, that is of course when I sent ! haha  Food is always the way to my heart.  Thanks for the psyche my bearded German friend.

My other proud send was a V7 slab called origami.  The thing was an utterly terrifying highball with nothing but smears and slaps.  What did I learn?  O, just I can climb slab better than burly compression.

After close to two weeks, however, my psyche on Castle Hill was gone.  I felt ready to move on, continue onward with my travels.  I think it was partly the bitter, cold nights, but also the same spot day in and day out.  I realized though, that I really do miss summer....  I long for warmth, for tank tops, for shirtless barbecues and skin brown from the sun.  As much as I love this country I yearn for summer.  I ache for Mexican food.  I miss... well California a bit.  Am I homesick?  NO!  I simply miss some friends and ... well notice what i notice.  I notice I miss these things, but am not a wreck of desparity.  I love this country and what I am doing with my time here.

So after a wicked snow storm, I decided to hitchhike onward.  The morning was an immense emergence from my tent.... everyrhing was blanketted with a fresh 4 inches of snow.  Awe-sinspiring. Cold.

I had my next wwoofing spot set, and just needed to get there.  A slow day of hitchhiking left me finally with a ride from a one Greg from Philli, an 18 year transplant in his mid forties.  It was late in the day, so he invited me to stay the night at his lakefront alpine holiday home at Lake Brenner.  When we arrived, first thing was first , a beer lakeside to watch the sunset.  Soon, we finished a couple bottles of epic Pinot Noir and were munching an amazing dinner of roasted bell peppers, onion, and South African bratwaurst stuffs.  Cost to me?  $0

again, I am amazed at the hospitality provided by a complete stranger.  He owed me nothing.... not even a ride, and instead he gave me a place to stay, and evening of good food, wine and Scotch, and breakfast for the morning.  These are things unheard of back home....  So where does this put me?  Really, I just want to spread the kindness that has been shown to me, both here and when I return home.  So when you see that broke college student, that sad little kid, etc., do what you can!  Spread the love, even by doing the smallest things.  Do i mean food and gifts?! NO!  Just spread the good vibes with a smile, a handshake, a friendly gesture when u can.

Currently, I sit in an mountain home of Pamela and Bob.  here, I have been laying paving stones in return for my own cottage and amazing home cooked meals.  They have inspired me with numerous conversations on the topic of conservation both here and back home.... they are kind people, simple people.  Again, mutual benefits via wwoofing.  They get a new walkway they are too busy to put in, I get to eat like  champion and enjoy the comforts of society.

Interesting facts:

2: the number of showerss I have had in the last 2 1/2 weeks
3: the types of alcohol Bob has treated me to in my stay here... beer, whiskey, wine.  God its good !


I plan to stay here for a few more days and then plan to head to Paynes Ford.  There, overhung limestone routes await me outside an awesome hippy town.  How long will i stay?  Who knows!  My flight home is July 19th... But i think I will switch it to August 3rd.  Sooooo for now we'll see!

I hope my excitement to climb again, living out of my tent and eating camp food will mantain for a few more weeks of being a climber bum.  I am living the dream.

i miss u all friends!